Thursday, March 22, 2007

Un-Cream of Cauliflower


Here we have a simple post for a simple recipe. I can almost guarantee that you will not find a shorter ingredient list (two items) than this, and I can definitely promise you that the flavor is well worth the small amount of effort required to, basically, throw this vegetable into the blender. This soup is exactly the kind of recipe that my mother likes to call "an idiot's delight": it's easy to make and it tastes fantastic.

It's winter out here in Connecticut (ref pudgy cute bird in slush above) and I wanted a cream-of-something soup. I expected to puree cauliflower as a base to my soup and then season it later, adding other ingredients like cream, garlic or potatoes along the way. Instead, I found that all I wanted was the cauliflower itself. The soup tastes simply amazing. It is so rich, creamy and flavorful that I would actually pick this soup over Potato Cheddar - and Greg agrees. Whereas I am the queen of all things sugary, Greg is the king of all things buttery. His judgment on a fat free soup is a pretty good one(!), and I think we both surprised ourselves by liking such a simple, healthy meal.


Uhm, speaking of butter (and the opposite of healthy), we served this with slices of multi grain bread grilled on a buttered skillet. It was sublime. If you're feeling hesitant to try this recipe, think of it this way: make the soup base as it is, and then decide if you want heavy cream in it or not.

Un-Cream of Cauliflower
Serves 2-4
Hint: make sure you like cauliflower before making this soup.

1 head of organic cauliflower
Salt and pepper to taste
  1. Add cauliflower to food processor and pulse until finely chopped*. Scrape into to a heavy bottomed soup pot and fill with water to cover. Boil until cauliflower is completely tender and there are no more floating pieces - approximately 30 minutes, or longer depending on the size of cauliflower chunks (check water level occasionally to make sure it doesn't burn).
  2. Take mixture back to food processor and puree until completely smooth. Be patient to fully puree the cauliflower - it will turn into creamy goodness at a certain point. Season with salt and pepper to taste**, adding more water if necessary, and serve.
*alternately, just boil the cauliflower in large chunks - the result will be the same, but it will just take a little longer to cook. Make sure to boil it long enough so that the cauliflower is completely softened and the starches begin to break down and thicken the soup.
**I think I added about 1-1.5 tbsp salt and about 1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper. This will really depend on your own taste

Thursday, March 15, 2007

30 Minute Vegan Lasagna with Walnut/Spinach and Tofu/Honey Filling


Ever since my recent decision to indulge in responsible meat choices occasionally (which has so far only meant, twice), I've been thinking quite a bit about my eating habits, and, particularly, the amount of egg and dairy products that I consume.

WARNING: Really cute pictures to follow for no other reason than I think they're cute.

My adorable soon-to-be niece

I've never been motivated to become a vegan, but I have at times wondered about my general level of other-animal-related-product consumption. I'm careful to only buy organic milk and eggs from farms that claim some level of humane treatment, but even then... with cereal for breakfast, egg sandwiches, cappuccinos/lattes, plenty of dairy based sauces, cheese for quick snacks, and etc, it all adds up. I used to be lactose intolerant when I was younger, and I am beginning to wonder if it is reappearing. Sometimes I feel an urge to cut back. It's often nice, if I can find a way, to leave dairy out or a recipe - healthwise, and thinking in environmental terms too.

(Though anyone who has been reading this blog for a few weeks already knows that's hardly a steadfast rule ; ) )

My adorable soon-to-be nephew

So far I've made a 75% switch to soy milk. I actually like the flavor it brings to my coffee, and I don't notice much of a difference in my cereal. Today, I wanted to make a vegan lasagna: tofu for ricotta and no cheese or bechemel.

My adorable soon-to-be husband

I started by pureeing the tofu. It was a bit harsh tasting when I tested the mixture, so I compensated for that "sour"ish soybean taste with 2 tsp of honey. The honey brought a wonderful flavor to the tofu. I also knew it would work well with the next rather odd flavor to have in a lasagna: I pureed walnuts with spinach and caramelized mushrooms for the second filling.


Walnuts? Walnuts, you say - really? Yes: walnuts. I love the texture and depth of flavor that cooked walnuts bring to vegetable dishes, and I got the idea from a Cashew Nut Chili recipe a friend sent me. I've been itching to try it in a lasagna. I would highly encourage you to try this take on a spinach filling, whether you choose to make an entire lasagna vegan or not. The dense, deep flavor of the walnuts complements the bright flavor of the spinach, and the mushrooms round everything out with a little moisture and bulk. This walnut/spinach filling tastes really, really good, and I loved how the flavor stood up to the tofu/ricotta filling.


I added a little crushed red pepper flakes to everything, and then I topped the whole lasagna with what is quite possibly the simplest sauce I've ever made: a can of tomatoes pureed with a little salt, pepper and tomato paste. By assembling the lasagna with the majority of sauce on top, I obtained a thick, tangy roasted 1" tomato "crust" - my favorite way to enjoy a baked lasagna, as it reminds me of deep dish pizza from Chicago. I broiled the lasagna for a few more minutes to crisp up the edges and roast the red pepper slices.


This recipe was really great and a breeze to prepare: it'll be a staple in my repertoire, I am sure. The entire prep time was less than 30 minutes and the flavor was unbeatable. Plus, it didn't involve any dairy products, and most of the ingredients came out of the pantry or the freezer. The only part that I would like to change is the tofu mixture - once the lasagna baked, the honey I added was overwhelmed by an unmistakable tofu flavor. I don't mind it myself, but then again I'll eat tofu raw. It might turn off someone who's not already a tofu fan (i.e., the very cute, but not terribly fond of tofu, soon-to-be husband). Next time, I'll double the honey and add a little more salt. The strong tofu flavor might also be fixed by drizzling extra sauce over the tofu layers before topping with noodles.


30 Minute Vegan Lasagna with Walnut/Spinach and Tofu/Honey Filling
Serves 6

"Ricotta"
14 oz firm organic tofu
2 tsp honey
1/2 tsp sea salt
dash nutmeg

Walnut/Spinach Filling
16 oz frozen chopped spinach, thawed
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
8 large cremini mushrooms
1-2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp sea salt
freshly grated black pepper

Sauce - you could easily substitute pre-made sauce, though I liked the intense tomato tange I got from this simple version. Test the spices as you go - depending on what tomato brand you use, it'll need different amounts of salt and pepper. "Italian Style" simply means canned with basil.
28 oz Italian style canned whole plum tomatoes
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
1 tbsp tomato paste
salt and pepper to taste

Assembly...
1 large red bell pepper, sliced thinly
8 oz lasagna noodles (I used half a box, or enough for 3 pasta layers in an 8x8 pan - I prefer lasagna to be noodle-light and filling-heavy).

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and place a large pot of salted water over high heat. Work on other steps. When water boils, add lasagna noodles and cook for 5 minutes. Drain once cooked and set aside.
  2. Drain tofu and add in chunks to food processor. Add honey, sea salt and nutmeg. Pulse until tofu reaches a course crumble - look for the texture of ricotta, not a smooth puree. Re-season if necessary and set aside
  3. Add olive oil to a small saute pan with mushrooms. Saute over high heat until nicely caramelized (5-10 minutes). Add a pinch or two of salt and continue cooking for several minutes, until any remaining juices steam off.
  4. While the mushrooms cook, add thawed chopped spinach to a bowl lined with cheesecloth. Pick up the cheesecloth corners, forming a bag between your hands, and squeeze out as much water as possible. Add spinach, walnuts, mushrooms and spices to food processor. Process until smooth. Re-season if necessary and set aside.
  5. Add entire can of tomatoes to food processor with spices and tomato paste. Process until smooth.
  6. Assemble lasagna:
    • Splash of sauce, noodles,
    • 1/2 tofu mixture, noodles,
    • 1/2 spinach, remaining tofu, noodles,
    • Remaining spinach, noodles
    • Rest of sauce.
    • Layer bell pepper slices on top.

  7. Bake for 1 hour. Broil for an additional 5-10 minutes to roast the red pepper slices, then let rest for 15 minutes before serving.
By my estimate (thank you fitday.com), this entire lasagna has about 2200 calories. For 6 large portions, that's 360 calories each, with 100% of your daily value of vitamin A, vitamin C and calcium. This serving also offers about 50% DV of folate, B-6 and vitamin E, 15g of healthy fat (only 2 of which are saturated) and 20g of soy protein. All from "whole" foods. I'm not even going to do the comparison to a normal cheese lasagna - I think you can imagine!

Pretty darn delicious...

Thursday, March 08, 2007

Tastefully Challenged


My friend Erin says there's no such thing as a recipe gone bad. It merely tastes like something you didn't quite intend, and in order to fix the recipe one must simply name the concoction correctly. Then, the dish will taste exactly as you intended it to, and the result will have been a tremendous success. For example, one day when I substituted All Spice for Nutmeg in some homemade pudding (the result was nearly inedible), we called it both "Holiday Pudding" and a day. There have been many a "Rock Cake" created in my kitchen and even a little "Crumble Pie". One time, the "Tongue Tingling Omlet" (third picture down) made an appearance, though before that it was "Heartbreak Even Tomato" (it tasted too good to bother revealing the heartburn that resulted - it was worth it). Maybe my favorite was "This Almost Gave Us Food Poisoning Swordfish", though we'll never really know what "That Thing That Tori Ate Instead of Us" would have been like had we actually eaten it. Perhaps the ones that I never posted about were the ones that required, well, that most drastic re-naming, shall we say?

Today's recipe is an interesting one. What is it, exactly? A soup? A ravioli filling? A sauce? A garnishment? A base to simmer tofu in? A sandwich spread? Something to dip crackers in?

I still have no idea.

Despite this recipe's status of non-identity due to its unique tastefully challenged finale, and this is the funny part, I really like it. Or, at least I think I ought to like it. Or, maybe if I give it the right name, I'll like it. Since getting this level of powerful, pure, knock your socks off mushroom flavor into a dish was my goal, I succeeded entirely (err, a bit overenthusiastically), and I am damn well determined to find a use for it. I refuse to allow this interestingly intense dish to go wayside with the Better Left Forgotten Cookies. That's why I am posting here. I set the challenge to you, few readers: what would you use this for?

It started out with an idea for mushroom leek soup. I wanted something very, very mushroomy (watch out what you wish for). I nixed the garlic, added only the barest minimum of broth, and simmered away a variety of mushrooms with leeks, celery, mushrooms, and almost nothing else - not even any cream. I pureed the whole thing and tried to serve it as soup, which is where Greg and I ran into a little trouble. It was simply too rich to eat as soup. One spoonful and a person felt so overwhelmed with mushroom flavor that there simply wasn't any need to... have another spoonful. It wasn't a bad flavor, exactly, it just wasn't the right form. It would be like dipping a spoon into a bowl full of vodka cream sauce. The sauce might be fantastic, but straight up without the appropriate pasta base? No sir, thank you very much.


Speaking of pasta, and having anticipated this problem somewhat (due to a few pre-serving taste tests), I had already made a very light pasta dish to go with this Soup-Hopeful: gemelli tossed with steamed broccoli, spinach, a dash of olive oil, garlic and a little grated pecorino cheese. Greg and I cautiously spooned tiny amounts of the Dish-Without-A-Purpose over the Very-Purposeful-Pasta and took a weary bite.

Better. The burst of mushroom flavor was well complemented by the green, fresh bite of the spinach and broccoli. But still, it was not right. The mushroom flavor was just too much.

A few ideas:
- Nix most of the broth (say 1 cup total) and braise the mushrooms and leeks together for a pate of sort (cracker topping? sandwich spread? ravioli stuffing? lasagna?)
- Thin out with extra broth and serve as soup. Maybe not. Ugh. It's really, really rich. There needs to be another flavor, not just a dilution.
- Use as-is over a baked potato? Baked on top of chicken?
- Greg's idea: use in a risotto?



I really don't know, but I'd love to hear what you'd do to this recipe to fix it. I still have something of this Mushroom Unknown left to use up - so if you think of something good I'll try it and let you know how it goes!!

Flavorful Mushroom Something
Serves? If I knew what it was I could wager a guess

1/4 cup olive oil
3 large leeks
3 large celery ribs
3 cups vegetable broth
5 oz hen of the wood fresh mushrooms
5g dried black trumpet mushrooms
10g dried porcini mushrooms
1 tbsp salt (or to taste)
freshly grated black pepper
parsley to garnish

  1. Split leeks down the center and slice into 1/2" wide semicircles. Float leeks in large bowl of cold water. Immerse and then drain water. Repeat for three full rinses of the leeks
  2. Slice celery into 1/2" semicircles
  3. Add celery, leeks and olive oil to a heavy bottomed soup pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until very soft and caramelized. Once vegetables begin to stick, deglaze with vegetable brother, cover and continue cooking for 45 minutes to an hour
  4. Meanwhile, rehydrate dried mushrooms in 1 cup boiling water. Take out rehydrated mushrooms and chop finely with fresh mushrooms, reserving fluid for later use.
  5. Add chopped mushrooms to soup pot. Strain reserved fluid into pot through several layers of cheesecloth.
  6. Cover and continue cooking as before, until the 45 minutes to an hour time is up. Cool slightly and puree in a blender or food processor until smooth.
  7. Season to taste

Sunday, March 04, 2007

Pancakes, oh pancakes


In case you haven't guessed, Greg and I are foodies. Real foodies. We don't tour restaurants or order $400 bills. We don't critique whether the creme fraiche was really fresh (Okay, I couldn't help but make the pun). We do, however, eat a lot, and we always eat well. What you might not know about us, however, is that both Greg and I have a particular everyday thing that we never sacrifice.


Breakfast. Oh Breakfast.


Typical breakfast fare for a weekday morning would be a vegetable omelet with toast or an egg sandwich with whatever cheese I have around. Maybe we'd have granola with yogurt and fresh fruit, or an on-the-go wrap. On the weekend I occasionally spice things up with a little hash browns. Weekend or weekday, I often make pancakes.


Another thing you might not know about me is that I'm actually a little obsessed with pancakes. My interest in pancakes almost competes with my cookie obsession. It's not that I even like pancakes themselves all that much (especially when compared to other breakfast possibilities, or, my goodness, cookies themselves): it's that I like tweaking the recipe. The basic pancake recipe is so simple, so easy, and so flexible that I could probably make pancakes every day for a year and still be interested in it. Here it is:
  • 3/4 cup milk
  • 1 egg
  • 3/4 cup flour
  • 3/4 tsp baking powder
(Often this recipe calls for 1/4 cup sugar, but I prefer to omit the sugar).

The thing about this recipe is that you can substitute just about anything for the milk and anything for flour.


  1. Here are my favorite substitutions for the milk ingredient: yogurt, ricotta, mashed bananas, applesauce, fruit juice, soy milk, or any of the above plus a few tbsp coconut milk (this is astoundingly good, by the way, what with all the saturated fat in coconut milk). How much should you substitute? For any of these ingredients, you can substitute to whatever degree you like - just make sure the total fluid volume comes to about 3/4 cup. When I substitute yogurt or ricotta, I usually go just shy of 3/4 cup and add a few splashes of milk to keep the consistency right. For the mashed bananas, around 1 banana + 1/4 cup milk or 1/2 cup yogurt works well.
  2. Here are my favorite substitutions for the dry ingredients: whole wheat flour, oat bran, and oatmeal
  3. Here are my favorite fruit additions: blueberries, apples, raspberries, strawberries, and banana slices. For the berries and banana slices, add them in after all of the other ingredients have been mixed. For apples, slice them thin, place in a pan with a sprinkle of brown sugar and pour the pancake batter over. Fry for several minutes until the apples caramelize, then flip. Alternately, just stir in chopped apples.
  4. And then of course there are the seasonings: vanilla, brown sugar, maple syrup, walnuts, nutmeg or Cinnamon.
Yogurt or ricotta give an incredible texture to pancakes. I really enjoy it: dense, slightly chewy, but still soft, tender, and definitively pancake. I didn't have any yogurt today or I would have used it. Often I even forgo butter and syrup on my pancakes in favor of plain yogurt stirred with jam on top. It's really quite delicious, and it takes a typically butter/sugar filled breakfast indulgence into something quite a bit more flavorful and healthy. My favorite healthy version of this recipe is 1/2 cup skim ricotta or plain yogurt + 1/4 cup milk, 1tbsp sugar, splash vanilla, 1 egg, 3/4 cup whole wheat flour and 3/4 tsp baking powder. My favorite so-delicious-but-bad-for-you version of this recipe is 1/2 cup plain yogurt, 1/4 cup milk, 1/4 cup coconut milk, 1 egg, 3/4 cup all purpose flour and 3/4 tsp baking powder.


On Saturday, Greg and I got up at 5am to join a friend in a three hour car ride to ski in Vermont. It. Was. Awesome. I've only been skiing (now) twice in my life, and I have to say this: I like to ski. I really, really like to ski. If it wasn't so unaffordable and life wasn't so busy, I'd have gone skiing every free weekend day I could find. Saturday was the first day we were able to go skiing this whole winter: I managed to do all right, staying on the easy trails, only tripping once, and getting scared but still enjoying myself. Greg and his friend Alex tackled some black diamonds (glad I wasn't there to see - probably would have been terrified to watch them), and they joined me for a few runs, giving tips and training to help me learn. 7 hours of hard exercise later, we collapsed into the car and drove back to New Haven. This morning I woke up with aching hips (snowplowing), tense quads (skis themselves), and bruised shins (damn boots!). Poor Greg managed to take a pretty good fall early in the morning and crushed his shoulder in an awkward position - he woke up in decently more pain than I had to deal with.

Both of us needed a filling healthy breakfast, and along with soy milk cappuccinos, here's what we had:

Soy Blueberry Pancakes
Serves 2

3/4 cup soy milk
Splash of cream*
1 organic, free range egg
100g organic, whole wheat flour**
1 tsp baking powder
1 cup frozen organic blueberries ***

  1. Whisk together soy milk, cream and egg. Sift flour and baking powder on top. Stir just until moistened. Add blueberries and stir just until combined
  2. Heat skillet over medium-low heat with a tiny bit of vegetable oil and a swipe of butter
  3. For each pancake, add 1/4 cup batter and spread out with spatula until pancake is about 1/2" thick. Fry until edges begin to brown and bubbles appear in the batter (about 4 minutes). Flip and continue frying until done throughout (about 5 minutes) ****
  4. Serve with a little bit of butter and good syrup. Walnuts or granola are good on the side*****
Make sure to play with the ingredients in this recipe!

*Can omit the cream. I had some on hand, so I added it to enrich the soy milk
**Yes, I weigh the flour because this ensures that the dry ingredients will match the wet ingredients. This works out to 3/4 cup all purpose flour or just shy of that for whole wheat flour
***The blueberries will turn the batter green over time. It doesn't bother me. If it bothers you, toss them with several tbsp of flour before adding to the batter and use quickly.
****To tell whether pancakes are done, tap the center with your index finger. If the pancake springs back, it's done. An indent means it needs longer to cook
*****Fortunately for us, our upstairs tenants have parents that sugar off their own maple syrup every year, so we've got a good supply of really good syrup. It is truly worth it to get good syrup - I promise

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Two partially satisfying attempts

You know it's been "that kind of a week" when your significant other makes a smile face dinner to cheer you up on a Tuesday night

Do you ever just have one of those weeks?

Sometimes it feels like I've had one of those months... or years... or lifetimes... Okay, now I'm getting dramatic. It's not that bad. In fact, it's pretty typical, and Greg and I don't even have kids to deal with, as so many other people do. In fact, compared to the types of obligations most people have, I ought to be ashamed of my current state of self pity: I do have it pretty good. Yet how is that no matter how much you try to portion out your time efficiently, how much you rationalize your choices in life, how much you actively decide to work at the right level and have balance to your days, life nonetheless persists in getting overwhelming? Sometimes for extended periods of time? There are so many everyday tasks to everyday life, those continuous commitments inherent to keeping ones' ducks in a row. Those are satisfying when there's time to do them properly. But they're always placed on top of (oor second to) those unavoidable commitments, the ones we can't escape: work, and obligations to other people.

I won't even delve into this breakfast's issues... though it did look like it would taste good

This week has been particularly bad . Like most generally friendly people, I have a hard time saying "no" when someone asks for help, and there's also my own pride to deal with in asking others for help to compensate. I've been saying "sure" a lot lately without enough "can you?"s to make up for it - so much so that I think if anybody else asks me to do another thing for them I just might spontaneously combust. Early mornings, late nights, home to scratch together something to eat, and more work. Going home to continue works just means half-- efforts on all of it and a lack of time to show the attention to detail that normally gives me so much pleasure. It's exhausting, and it feels like it won't end soon enough.

Another case of "took the picture before I tasted the dish". Woops. Imagine putting a spoonful of baking soda in your mouth - that's the last time I'll try to make my baked omlet fluffy without a recipe reference

As a result of all this stress, I haven't had much time to do normal things like putting away clothes, packing the dishwasher or making dinner. Greg has rather graciously taken over most household duties, leaving me to attempt two recipes this week that both came out somewhat like the week itself... not quite right, if I were to have any say in the matter.


The first recipe was a black lentil / nut and grain stew type of a dish. I have no idea what the ethnicity on this would be, I just know that I was craving it and I loved it after making it. I cooked black lentils in water with a little garlic and and old bay spice. In a separate pot, I added a Trader Joe's premixed grain blend (primarily Israeli couscous -one of my favorites. It's just so much fun to eat!!) with walnuts, pumpkin seeds, cauliflower, onion and spinach... The pumpkin seeds were a mistake... The rest of it was awesome. I'm going to give the recipe here with the comment that there are two things I need to change next time: (1) all walnut, no pumpkin seeds, and (2) make my own grain mix. I promise you I'll be repeating this recipe soon, with the tweaks that I know would make it worthy of a regular dinner item. It was hearty, filling, and so unbelievably healthy that I surprised myself with how much I liked the flavor. The walnuts really added depth to this grain intensive dish.


The second recipe was a stuffed shells recipe. It tasted spectacularly yummy, though I say it failed because I had something completely different in mind when I started making it.

What was I aiming for? Thin tomato broth infused with red peppers and sundried tomatoes baked briefly over shells stuffed with part skim ricotta and spinach.


What did I end up making? A spicy, flavor-intense, heavy canned tomato based sauce I baked for an hour over shells stuffed with whole milk ricotta, an egg and heavy cream. Heavy cream? Heavy cream? I know. I'm such a purist when it comes to stuffings too - normally I won't even add egg to my lasagna or manicotti. The whole dish went so randomly wrong that I made too little sauce and ended up pouring 2 cups of canned crushed tomatoes over the last bit to cover - without any seasoning or prep.

Oh bother.

Oh well. It was insanely delicious, regardless of the snaffoo (it is full of heavy cream, after all), and I can't wait to have it for lunch tomorrow. I would highly recommend the shell dish, and conditionally recommend (pending improvements) the lentil stew dish.

So here are two meals that both succeeded in partially satisfying a craving and a necessity. Here's to a week.




Hearty Black and White Lentil Grain Stew
Serves 4-6

2 tbsp olive oil
1 cup dried black lentils
3 cloves garlic
1 tbsp old spice

2 tbsp olive oil
1 cup mixed grains (I used a mix from Trader Joe's that had a lot of different things in it, including millet, couscous of several varieties, small pasta shapes, a few other unidentifiable things - you could easily substitute Israeli Couscous)
1/2 cup walnuts
1/2 head cauliflower, chopped into florets
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
1 bunch fresh spinach, washed very well and chopped
1/4 cup pomegranate juice
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper

  1. Add olive oil, black lentils and seasoning to a small pot with 3 cups water. Bring to a low simmer and cook until lentils are tender have absorbed most of the water, about 45 minutes
  2. Meanwhile, prepare ingredients for the rest of the recipe.
  3. Add grain, oil and walnuts to a heavy bottomed pot. Toast mixture over medium/low heat until walnuts begin to release oils and become fragrant (about 5-10 minutes)
  4. Add 4 cups water, cauliflower, red pepper and onion. Simmer over low heat until vegetables are cooked through and liquid has been completely absorbed. Stir in spinach with pomegranate juice and seasoning, cooking for an additional 3-4 minutes.
  5. Serve lentils side by side with grains*
*I sprinkled feta on top and enjoyed it, although I had it without feta the next day and it was just as good!

Double Stuffed Shells
Serves 6-8

Sauce:
4-6 sundried tomatoes packed in oil, chopped
1 tbsp reserved oil from sundried tomatoes
1 tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
28 oz whole stewed tomatoes
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 cups crushed tomatoes
1 tsp red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste

Stuffed shells:
1/2 lb dried pasta shells (or more, depending on the size of the shell - I had big ones that held a lot of stuffing)
2 cups shredded mozzarella
1/2 cup shredded Parmesan
16 oz whole milk ricotta
1 egg
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Dash nutmeg
  1. Preheat oven to 350 and start large pot of water boiling for shells
  2. To make the sauce, combine shallot, red pepper, sundried tomatoes and garlic with oils in a dutch oven over medium heat. Briefly saute until onions are softened, about 5 minutes
  3. Add remaining tomato ingredients and spices, using a wooden spoon to break up whole tomatoes into sizable bites. Cover and keep on low heat.
  4. Add dry shells to water when it reaches a boil
  5. Mix together 1.5 cups mozzarella with all of the Parmesan, ricotta, egg and heavy cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add a dash of nutmeg.
  6. Drain shells and stuff with ricotta mixture.
  7. Nestle shells into dutch oven with sauce, spooning any extra sauce over top to cover the shells. Add remaining half cup of cheese to top and bake at 350 for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the sauce is bubbling through the top.

Monday, February 26, 2007

Eat Food. Not Too Much. Mostly Plants

So I've been absent from the food blogging as of late. Two unrelated reasons for this:

1) I've been insanely busy, and Greg has been doing much of the cooking
2) I've started eating meat again. I had bacon on Saturday morning for the first time in 6 years. I had it again on Sunday, and a chicken salad sandwich to boot. I had to try it and think about it before I was willing to be public about it.

Aghast, horror, I know, for some of you that have known me during this time. To paraphrase Ricky Ricardo, I got some splainin' to do.

Six years ago, I read an article about chicken farming practices that had a statistic in it: 80% of USDA chicken inspectors don't eat chicken. It horrified me. What did they know that I didn't? Was this akin to someone who works in a coffeeshop not being able to stand the sight of a coffeepot at home? (Or alternately, as Roz on Frasier put it, the gynecologist she was dating coming home after work and telling her, "The next time I have to see another ..." But I digress). Or was it more serious than that - were the slaughterhouses so gruesome that chicken inspectors found the whole thing revolting?

After reading up on the matter, thinking long and hard, and finding myself one week later staring at a frozen Cosco mystery-meat-loaf of What Was Once Alive And Now Tastes Like Processed Crap (Probably With Actual Crap In It), sitting on the counter at my parents' home... I came to an epiphany. I simply couldn't, wouldn't, ingest anything that had to suffer before it died or anything that was part of a system that disagreed with my fundamental beliefs.

My issue was never directly with eating a living organism itself. I don't have an ethical conflict with consuming a being that doesn't have self-aware, "I Am A Cow and I Can Moo", sort of conscious thought. This is all for the same reason that I am willing to spend my days operating on and testing rats in behavioral paradigms (my graduate work is another topic for discussion). I'm happy to discuss why I believe those two things, but in an effort to trim down the size of this blog entry, I'll instead move on to what I find objectionable:
This is just a sampling and doesn't even begin to scratch the surface of what is wrong, wrong, wrong with the industrialized chicken industry. My quest for knowledge started with the chickens and quickly spread to the cattle industry. Meat consumption and production in this country (and other industrialized nations) is just bad for everybody:
And the icing on the cake, a fact that I was not aware of until I met Greg:

Yes, Mad Cow does exist, and yes, there have been confirmed cases in our livestock. Our government denies its existence, does not test cattle routinely, continues to partake in unsafe feeding practices, and does so much to ignore its potential that we probably have no concept of how many undiagnosed people die every year from it - when it is mistakenly termed "Spontaneous CJD" instead of "Variant CJD", or when it is just assumed to be dementia. The owner of the building that Greg works in died from CJD caused by tainted beef that they believe he ate in the United States (the only other option was a single meal the man had while he was in Italy, as opposed to a lifetime of eating meat in America). Would you still eat beef in France if you knew that 2 in 1000 cows were likely have mad cow disease (as they are in France)? Would you still eat beef in the US if you knew that we simply do not routinely test significant portions of our cows before they are led to slaughter, and so we have no idea at all what the ratio is for our own cattle? What would you do if you knew that elk and deer populations in the midwest are thoroughly infected with a similar prion/brain-wasting disease? What if you knew that prion diseases have been confirmed in our cattle population and then hushed up?

Are these facts our responsibility? Absolutely. There is nothing that we are more responsible for than our choices as consumers. For all you raving capitalists, I agree: capitalism works and it works really well, but it comes with responsibility. If we choose a capitalist society, we have to make sure our ethical decisions are directly tied in to our financial decisions. Otherwise we are a society without a conscience. How else will our ethical beliefs be represented by our culture?

What we buy is what we believe.

What would you do with these realizations? Maybe you would do what I did, and what so many other informed consumers across our world are increasingly choosing to do. You might refuse to consume meat that was part of the industry that promotes cruelty to animals, that directly takes food from the mouths of the poorest and hungriest in our world to the wealthiest and fattest (by increasing grain costs), that destroys our environment, that promotes unsustainable farming practices, that leads to unsafe working conditions, unethical government lobbying, bad health, bad science, and bad... well, bad life.

This is something that I firmly believe: the cattle industry, the chicken industry, and the pork industry are a bane of our humanity. This is a time in human history we will come to regret, when we have sacrificed our health, our lives, and our conscience for 99 cents per lb beef sales, for a quantity of animal protein that is neither necessary or healthy to consume, for being a part of what's easy and tastes good. No, I'm not being dramatic. I believe this whole heartedly.

Which is why I refused. I said no: no more mass produced meat, and if it's not mass-produced, then I'll less meat than I ever though I'd be able to, well, not eat. So I cut back. I went organic. I went sustainable. I had meat occasionally, and only when I could verify its source as being a type of farm with practices I believed in and would promote.

And then the trouble came, because if you're at a party and someone shoves a bowl of beef chili in your hands and you say you can't eat, they say, "Are you a vegetarian?"... you reply, "Sort of?", then try to shout over the music to explain exactly why you sometimes eat meat but are only refusing the meat they happen to serve in their home purchased at their grocery store on sale. And then they feel hurt, embarrassed and awkward, because this sort of explanation requires the kind of moral lecture that I was only willing to give to an audience of people who want to listen. (Alternately, I'll give it to an internet audience, 80% of whom have already closed their browser windows).

I made my life and lives' of the people I would have had to explain to simpler and less confrontational (though not easier): I went vegetarian - everybody understands that, I didn't eat any meat at all, and I was happy to explain myself to anyone who asked about my reasons.

So what's the problem? Here's the problem. I don't see anything wrong with eating small amounts of meat. I really don't. And I really want it, I crave it, and the cook in my yearns to use it. The only thing holding me back was the question: what would I say to someone when I'm at that party and they hand me a bowl of chili? Obviously not: "Sorry, I only eat meat that was produced with compassion, that was killed with humanity, that didn't add antibiotics to the groundwater supply, and whose health and well being was taken very careful care of before it was killed. Oh, and even if it meats those requirements, I'll only let meat be <5% percent of my diet, because otherwise I am contributing to global sustainability instability.

For so long I held myself back from making this choice because if it is a grey area. If I can't define my beliefs in one word, if I can't explain it as a black or white but not grey issue, how could I hold to it strongly?

Here's the truth. It is a grey area. What I believe falls precisely within the range of what the majority of people who eat what they eat without thinking about it define as neither here nor there. But we had better start divying up this grey area, or else pay the price in so many profound ways. I've decided to do what I truly think is right, make the modification to my eating habits, and be willing to explain it to anybody who asks. No, I will not have that chili. No, I will not order anything meat based at a restaurant. Yes, I will occasionally purchase sustainable meat products from places like Trader Joe's, Whole Foods, and our local farmer's market. Yes, I will consume certain responsible fish species but not others (and I'll explain why it's not an arbitrary decision). I will always buy organic, free range eggs and milk that do not contain growth hormones.

I will make informed choices based on how I think we should all make informed choices - I will not try to "overkill" my stated beliefs to compensate for anything or anybody else. I don't often judge other peoples' eating habits, unless it is the "the public at large", but what I will say is this: I would encourage you to think about what you eat before you even think about buying it
Albert Einstein once said: "Nothing will benefit human health and increase chances for survival on earth as much as the evolution to a vegetarian diet." I agree with the essence of the quote, but here's one I like better: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants." (My emphasis added)

Thank you, Michael Pollan. And I'll even make a slight addition: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants. Something that didn't scream when it died".

Sunday, February 18, 2007

Sunday's Sailor Stew


It's winter time and I would just like to say that the tiny little almost unnoticeable amount of snow we just got today completely justifies the fact I just indulged in a giant bowl of cream-based, hearty, homemade fish chowder.

I would also like to say: ooooooh yum.

I've been craving seafood ever after we discovered the existence of a fantastic fresh fish market less than 20 minutes away from where we live. Supposedly the fish come straight from the Fulton Fish Market in NYC every morning, and I believe it, since the Valentine's Day Dinner salmon that Greg cooked up tasted better than any fish I've had in the three years that I've lived here. They have very good fish at reasonable prices.

The idea for this chowder came from an amazing lobster bisque that Greg and I enjoyed while we were lazy bystanders in a small Connecticut town, waiting to see my friend Becky run by us on her way to completing the Mystic Marathon. We just ate a very heavy meal and finished a bottle of wine while we waited. The bisque was amazing. The wine they served with it transformed the meal into something surreal. It was cheesy, creamy, fishy and perfect. Ever since finding out about this fish market, I've been wanting to make something akin to it... though perhaps I would prefer a very slightly healthier version of the bisque.

Here I caramelized mushrooms and onions with white wine. I wanted to cook the tougher vegetables (potatoes, carrots and celery) before assembling the chowder, since otherwise the scallops would overcook. I didn't want to lose all of their flavor by boiling them and tossing out the cooking liquid - instead, I simmer down their cooking water until everything was soaked up. The starch from this process also helped to thicken the base.


Speaking of the chowder base, I used one cup of half and half with two cups fish stock instead of a slightly more typical whole cream base. Then came the cheeses, 2 cups in total: Cheddar for flavor, Romano for salt, and Gruyere for its amazing meltability.

Choosing the fish was a bit half-hazard, as I found myself on the spot at the fish market without any premeditated decisions to guide me. I picked up a small amount of cod, scallops and good crab meat. The cod was perfect and flaky. The crab meat added great depth to the background base. I was worried about the scallops overcooking, but it all worked out miraculously: the scallops were tender and cooked through. I think this combination of seafood created a subtle but not overwhelming flavor. I wouldn't be sad to add either lobster meat or clams, though the budget prohibited that this time.

I topped the whole thing with my favorite wholewheat, store-bought pie crust - I know, cheater, you say! I do think it was worth the store-bought crust - the particular brand available to me is actually quite good (and not so bad for you), and it shaved so much prep time that I didn't even consider making my own. Alternately, you could top this with bread crumbs, cheese, biscuit dough, mashed potatoes, or nothing at all.

Greg and I both agreed this soup was truly wonderful. His only complaint was that the base was very slightly grainy. It didn't separate or curdle, but it just wasn't that super creamy heavy-cream base you'd typically expect from a bisque or a chowder. It's a tough call, deciding how to make it next time, since that creamy base is so tempting if you can ignore the saturated fat / calorie factor. I think we finally agreed that it was worth the health benefit of cutting out the heavy cream in order to enjoy more of the flavor and fish, with a tiny sacrifice in texture. Myself, I think I'd even be happy with a clear broth base. Doing a quick calorie calculation, if you stretch this whole base to 8 servings, that leaves you with 540 calories, 29 grams of protein, and 35 grams of mostly unsaturated (and hopefully healthy-fish-oil) fat per serving. Let's just say, it could be worse, that's a lot of fat, but it's partly olive oil and fish - fats which I consider perfectly healthy and don't worry too much about.

If you're searching for something a little creamier, replace the half and half and fish stock with a total of 1 cup heavy cream plus roux. If you're looking for something healthier, get rid of the crust completely and make the base with pure fish stock (no roux or cream) - you can stir in the half and half after baking everything together so that the dairy won't curdle sans roux. The lighter version is about 420 calories, 26 grams of fat, and 27 grams of protein per serving (thank you fitday.com).

Otherwise, enjoy...



Creamy Seafood Chowder
Serves 6-8
About an hour and a half total prep time, which I split between two days (I stopped after cooking all of the vegetables)

Vegetables:
4 tbsp olive oil, divided
3 medium shallots
12 mushrooms
1 cup white wine
6 medium creamer potatoes
2 medium carrots
3 medium celery ribs
4 cloves garlic
2-4 cups water
1 tbsp mustard
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp salt

Cream Base:
4 tbsp butter
1/4 cup flour
1 cup half and half
2 cups fish stock
1 cup Gruyere
1/2 cup Romano
1/2 cup Cheddar
1 tbsp white pepper
1 tsp cayenne

Seafood:
1/4 lb cod
1/2 lb medium sea scallops
1/2 lb crab meat (the good stuff)

  1. Add 2 tbsp olive oil to a dutch oven and place over medium heat. Chop the shallots and add to pan. While they begin cooking, chop the mushrooms and add to the pan. Watch the vegetables carefully as they begin to caramelize. Meanwhile, prepare the other vegetables:
  • Slice the potatoes into wedges
  • Slice the celery into 1/2" segments
  • Slice the carrots into 1/2" disks
  • Roughly chop the garlic
  1. When the onions and mushrooms are nicely browned (~10-15 minutes), deglaze the pan with white wine. Scrape up any brown bits from the bottom and continue cooking until pan is almost dry. Set aside mushroom and onion mixture in a bowl. Add potatoes, carrots, celery and garlic to the pan with enough water to cover completely, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and salt. Bring water to a rapid boil and simmer away water until the pan is nearly dry and vegetables are soft. Meanwhile, prepare the remaining ingredients:
  • Grate each of the three cheeses
  • Soak sea scallops in milk
  • Slice cod into 2" pieces
  • Preheat the oven to 325 degrees
  1. Set aside remaining vegetables with onions and mushrooms. Add 4 tbsp butter to dutch oven with 1/4 cup flour. Melt the butter and flour over low heat and cook for an additional 3 minutes to form a roux. Whisk or stir in half and half and fish stock. Simmer for several minutes to thicken (do not boil).
  2. Finally, combine all ingredients (including fish) in the dutch oven. Cover with the pie crusts and cut slits to allow steam to escape. Place in oven for ~30-40 minutes, or until chowder begins to bubble through the slits in the crust. Broil for an additional 5 minutes to brown the top of the crust.
  3. Serve with fresh chopped parsley.
P.S. Title contribution from Pirate Greg