Sunday, January 07, 2007

Salt Induced Coma

Note: In celebration of putting together a slightly more official (and useful) wedding website at www.rachaelandgreg.com, this blogspot will indeed be a cooking blog from now on. Thanks for reading!! I will probably still post some Italy related updates, but everything is pretty much all settled.


Well I can't quite decide what's wrong with me, but I think I've settled on the explanation that I must be subconsciously assembling information for a series of books with titles like "Counterproductive Ways To Motivate Yourself To Exercise" or "1001 Reasons Why My Kitchen Will Never Be Clean". I can't seem to stop cooking. And although there was an entryless week immediately following New Years while we ate salad and carrot sticks for dinner every night, I am back to cooking and baking all things that are filling and heavy and full of salt. Oh, but it is good.


Saturday night we had our friends Kim and Ian over for dinner. I needed something yummy and suitable for our 3 out of 4 vegetarian crowd that didn't require any last minute prep. Lasagna it was. Lately I've been playing with lasagna ingredients (as you may remember the fate of the last Pesto Lasagna, which was of course re-created with a slightly different recipe the next day). Having had such recent success with mushroom risotto, I was still in the mood for something earthy and palette pleasing, and thus a recipe for mushroom lasagna was born.


A few surefire tricks to make mushroom flavor pop:

1) Don't salt cooking mushrooms. Do. Not. Salt. Salt brings out moisture, so if you add salt, mushrooms steam/boil in their own juices and cook at a much lower temperature than they would otherwise. Heating them without salt allows the mushrooms to brown up nicely


2) My favorite trick for getting flavor out of mushrooms involves deglazing with low sodium vegetable stock (for details, see the recipe below). When the mushrooms start cooking, they look something like the photo above. When they finish, they look something like the photo below.


3) Since fresh porcinis are usually out of budget, look for dried ones in a specialty food store. They can be rehydrated easily, as pictured below. Dried mushrooms are far more affordable and impart great flavor into a mushroom dish. I almost always have multiple varieties of dried mushrooms on hand.


I thought this recipe was really good with one exception: the cheese combination I used was incredibly salty and it masked the intense mushroom flavor. I think the Romano cheese was the culprit, whose presence wasn't entirely necessary anyway, given the addition of smoked mozzarella. I decided on smoked mozzarella based on Kim's own lasagna that she served us several months back - for a vegetarian dish, it lends a very hearty depth of flavor that you can't get out of vegetables alone. Plus, the sauce I used (oh do I cringe as I say this) was out of a bottle and may have contributed to the amount of salt here.. a shame that saving 10 minutes made such an impact on the success of this dish.


I used the mushrooms I had on hand, though probably any combination would work well. Baby bella's don't have much flavor - they only contribute body and moisture - so dried mushrooms are key to this dish. Next time I'd add a little rosemary. Other changes? More mushrooms, I think, and a homemade sauce. I would puree some whole canned tomatoeswith a little garlic and basil and leave it at that.


Hearty Mushroom Lasagna

1/4 c olive oil
16 oz baby bellas (2 packages), chopped finely
1-2 cups low sodium vegetable stock (look for something bitter, not sweet)
1/2 small mayan onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp ground white pepper

1 cup water
10 oz dried porcini mushrooms
10 oz dried black trumpet mushrooms

16 oz part skim ricotta
1/4 bunch flat leaf parsley
2 cups grated low moisture Mozzarella cheese
1 cup grated smoked Mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup grated Romano cheese

1. Add the oil to a pan and turn the heat to medium. Add mushrooms and toss to coat

2. Caramelize mushrooms in oil over the course of 40 minutes:
- Allow juices to develop and reduce until mushrooms begin to stick to the pan
- Deglaze with 1/4 cup stock
- Repeat

3. Prepare the dried mushrooms:
- Add mushrooms to 1 cup steaming hot water
- Submerge and allow to rest for 5 minutes
- Remove mushrooms, rinse under cold water and squeeze dry
- Pour reserved mushroom water through a double cheese cloth lined sieve
- Mince reserved mushrooms
- Add rehydrated mushrooms and broth to existing pan

4. Prepare the lasagna noodles:
- Cook in boiling water until a white chalky core barely remains
- Shock in cold water to halt the cooking process

5. Prepare the cheese mixture:
- Grate the cheeses and toss to mix
- Add one third of cheese mixture to ricotta
- Stir in flat leaf parsley and grated black pepper

6. When the mushrooms have finished cooking, add the chopped onions and garlic to the mixture in the pan.

7. Layer and bake at 350 for an hour. Allow to rest 15 minutes prior to serving


On to even more cooking topics...

After suffering from salt induced coma the next morning, somehow Greg and I found the will-power to join a friend at one of our favorite local places: Rudy's Bar, where they serve the best french fries you've ever had. One potato and grease saturated dinner later, we went home and sat on the couch all night. If you are what you eat, Greg and I were over-salted couch potatoes. Somehow I mustered up the caloric energy to try one more recipe, something out of my brand new Cook's Illustrated Subscription that I just Had To Try.


What was it? Fudge. Strange, hu? I've hardly ever even had fudge, believe it or not - maybe once or twice in my life. We didn't eat much candy growing up, and despite a propensity for chocolate, this particular form of it never called to me. But something about the Cook's Illustrated article drew me. It described how complex and easy to screw up traditional fudge candy recipes can be, and how the author of the article spent 4 months and manufactured 1000lb of the dense chocolate cubes before settling on what they considered to be the ultimate, the perfect, and the easiest fudge recipe around.


Here is it is in its original form. In my own recipe, I didn't have unsweetened chocolate on hand, so I added 1tbsp of espresso powder to counteract the sweetness of the semisweet chocolate. I also toasted the walnuts before adding them.


I discovered two tricks while making this recipe:
1) In order to avoid hearing "crunch, crunch, crunch" as you walk across your kitchen floor, chop the walnuts with a pastry cutter. It makes less mess than with a chefs knife, I think
2) Chop chocolate in a food processor. It may be noisy, but it'll save you the danger of doing it by hand (my knife always slips)


Old Fashioned Fudge

16 oz semisweet chocolate, chopped fine
2 oz unsweetened chocolate, chopped fine
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/8 tsp salt
14 oz sweetened condensed milk
1 tbsp vanilla extract
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1. Cut 12-inch length extra-wide heavy-duty aluminum foil; fold edges back to form 7 1/2 inch width. With folded sides facing down, fit foil securely into bottoms and up sides of an 8=inch square baking pan, allowing excess to overhand pan sides. Spray foil with nonstick cooking spray

2. Toss chocolates, baking soda and salt in medium heatproof bowl until baking soda is evenly distributed. Stir in sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. Set bowl over 4-quart saucepan containing 2 cups simmering water. Stir with rubber spatula until chocolate is almost fully melted and few small pieces remain, 2 to 4 minutes

3. Remove bowl from heat and continue to stir until chocolate is fully melted and mixture is smooth, about 2 minutes. Stir in walnuts. Transfer fudge to prepared pan and spread in even layer with spatula. Refridgerate until set, about 2 hours. Remove fudge from pan using foil and cut into squares.

This was indeed some very good fudge, and relatively simple. I unfortunately left my on the stove just too long and the fudge ended up a little bit oily, but not bad. The texture was smooth and light, and I am glad I toasted the walnuts. Next time I'd use part unsweetened chocolate, as the recipe called for. I sliced my 8x8 pan into 7x7 cubes, yielding yummy bites of about 80 calories each. Not so bad - just don't have more than a few, and that'll be tough!

49 comments:

deb said...

Yay! Full-time food blog and more pretty food pics! I heartily approve, of this as well as an abundance of mushrooms in anything. Have you tried dried cepe at all? They're like French porcini, a very similar flavor and I've occasionally found them less pricey, or have replaced them when porcini were not available. Also, you are terrifically earnest for feeling bad about using jarred sauce -- I use it almost by default, but mostly because pasta is usually our lazy dinner and I want to keep with the theme!

Rachael said...

Particularly this week I've been craving mushroomy dishes! I've never tried cepe mushrooms, but I'll have to keep an eye out for them. We don't have very good places to shop for food around here (other than typical supermarkets), but recently I rediscovered a great privately owned market that has all sorts of interesting fresh produce that I can't wait to try.

Thanks for the comments! Your own blog is great inspiration. The food blogging community is so much fun, and I've been really enjoying keeping track of my own recipes and reading about others' trials and errors too

Jenifer said...

Yay! More food blogs to add to my folder. You're officially moved into my food favorites.

Rachael said...

Aww, thanks! : )

Anonymous said...

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